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Chana-Polao layered with sweetened whipped
cream and dusted with Grana Padano cheese (khoya) |
Chhana-Polao with Misti Doi once was one of the most sophisticated desserts in Dhaka, now almost extinct, hard to find, if not impossible. Probably it costs more to make or the shelf-life is not long enough or the old 'karigors' (craftsman) are all gone. Originally almost all karigors were Hindus and over the years the migration of Hindu karikors to India is a major factor in the decline of the art of mishti making.
When I asked for Chhana-Polao in some mishti shops in Dhaka recently, they didn't know what it was. Younger people also never had it, never heard of it. When I made it recently for a party, my young friends, all from Dhaka said they never had it before. They loved it. Now a days traditional Bangali sweets are replaced by Indian dry sweets such as Laddos, Barfis and Halvas. Their shelf-life is eternal, easy to carry, so commercially profitable, but their quality is not as good as those we get in Indian sweet shops in the UK but in Dhaka they are in fashion! Visitors from Dhaka bring them to UK to impress their hosts - alas!
The good news is, the quality of traditional Bangali sweets in Dhaka (and main cities, good quality sweets are still available in remote areas, like Rajbari, Manikganj, Tangail etc.) has gone down but has gone up in London and some other cities in the UK and I know, in USA as well. It's mainly because of the availability of better quality ingredients. Particularly the main ingredients milk and sugar is so cheap here, they don't need to add anything to keep the cost down. The additives (vejal) will cost more than milk!
That was in the 70s when 'Moronchand' opposite Dhaka College was the undisputed king in the Mishti business, All mishsti shops at that time were eat-in restaurants with wooden chairs and tables, nothing fancy, very basic. Then came along 'Alauddin'. They opened a very trendy big shop in Green Supermarket on Green Road near Farmgate. they had comfortable sofas instead of chairs. (long before Starbucks came along with sofas in their coffee shops). That was a game changer. They had a distinctive blue and purple box and ran a unique marketing campaign, cartoon adverts by cartoonist Rofiqunnabi (signed as Ronobi) in Magazines (Bichitra) and newspapers, those adverts were very witty. Alauddin's shop quickly became a very popular spot for mishti lovers.
They did wonderful chhana-polao. Having it with mishti doi was the best combination. One day I was having Chhana-polao and Mishti doi at Alauddin's, a western couple walked in and sat by me. They asked me what was that I was having, I explained and they asked me to order that for them. They had and loved it!
Since now a days you can not buy it, only option you have is to make it! This is what you do: (you will need a Potato Ricer, see the picture)
Make the Chhana (cottage cheese):
- 1 litre (2 pints) full-cream Milk > bring to boil (easier in Microwave, about 20 mins, use a large MW-proof bowl)
- Once boiling > let it rest for 3-4 mins
- Add 1/4 c of vinegar (or lemon juice) > Stir slowly.
- As soon as the curd separates, drain using a cheese cloth on strainer > run under cold water to wash off the vinegar smell and stop cooking.
- Squeeze out as much water as you can.
Make the dough:
- Mix 1 cup of Chhana with 1 tbsp Corn Flour + 1 tbsp Plain Flour + 1 tbsp Besan (gram/chickpea flour) + 1/2 tsp orange food colour
- Knead until all lumps are gone. I run the chhana through the 'Potato Ricer' twice; this saves time and makes it easier to get a smooth dough.
Make the sugar syrup:
- Sugar 2 cups + Water 2 cups > Bring to simmer and stir until all sugar melts.
- add some elachi (cardamon powder or liquid)
- turn off the heat, syrup should be just warm.
Make the chhana rice:
- Heat up 4 cups of oil (you can add some ghee) > lower the heat
- Put the dough in the ricer and press. As the chhana comes out through the holes of the ricer, use a knife to scrape them off over the hot oil to fry for 2 minutes.
- Lift them up from the oil with a strainer spoon and dunk them in the warm syrup.
- Leave it for an hour to soak in the syrup and then lift them up and let the access syrup drain.
Serve: Serve with sweet yogurt or sweetened whipped cream. I layer them with whipped cream in a large dish. Sprinkle some Khoya if you have, otherwise 'Grana Padano' cheese is the best alternative if not better!